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How to make casting brone sinks:
How to make casting brone sinks:
Investment cast bronze sinks is a new line we are developing, you are welcome to follow our update, we will surely have more and more designs in the very near future. We have been making preparations for a long time, from investment casting equipments to the survey of the most popular styles in the market, we also find very experienced artists and specialists in cast bronze. many people may wonder why cast bronze items are with so high prices, that is because every step of the production needs very experienced workers, if any of the production line goes out of order, there will be no success of the item.
You are warmly welcome to send us custom-designed orders, not only cast bronze sinks but also sculptures, cast bronze murals, tiles and any kind of other items, we are very willing to make trail orders for you. Please see how we make our cast bronze sinks on the following:
step 1: Mold making step 2: Rubber mold

1. Mold making : The original sculpture is created, usually in plastocene, oil clay, polymer clay or various kinds of wax, ours are made of plastocene. All of our designs are the crystal of artists’ inspiration and creation.

2. Rubber mold: When the sculpture is completed, it is time for rubber model. The rubber mold has an exterior plaster or fiberglass mold created (a "mother mold”) to help support the rubber when wax is poured into it. The original sculpture is removed, and now we’re having rubber model for next step.

step 3: Wax injection step 4: pattern correction

3. Wax injection: A special wax is melted and poured into the mold. The mold is turned to make sure all the surfaces are coated, and then the wax is poured out. The process is repeated several more times until the correct thickness of wax is reached. Larger bronzes are usually hollow, with the bronze about 3/16" thick, depending on the size of the piece. The molds for monumental-sized bronzes are made in small, manageable pieces, and the bronze is welded back together after casting.

4. Pattern correction: The wax is removed from the mold and cleaned up, removing mold marks and making the piece as perfect as possible. (Bronze picks up every detail, including the artist's fingerprints!) This process is called "chasing" the wax. Sometimes the wax casting has to be cut in pieces for the bronze to pour better. The finished bronze will be welded back together and finished so nicely that you'll never know it started out in pieces.

step 5: wax pattern assembly step 6: shell making

5. Wax pattern assembly: Once the wax mold is completed, it is time for our workers to add “wax sprues” to it. These rods allow the hot air to escape when the bronze is poured, so there will be no air bubbles on the surface of the piece. Other sculptures have the sprues added later after the wax has been cast in the mold. The design of the original sculpture is what determines when sprues are added. The process of adding sprues is called "gating up.”

6. Shell making: The spruced wax casting is dipped in a liquid ceramic material called slurry. The slurry changes color to indicate when it's dry. Once the wax has been dipped in the slurry, it's coated with ultra-fine zircon sand. This process is repeated several times, with at least two coats of the finest sand as the first layers, to capture all the surface detail. Coarser sand is used for the final layers. The coated piece (which is said to be "invested" -- the slurry and sand are the "investment") is hung to dry.

step 7: preheat step 8: melting and pouring

7. Preheat: Once thoroughly dry, the piece is put in a kiln (oven) that heats to a very high temperature, melting out the wax (thus the term "lost wax process"). The ceramic shell ("investment") is now a cleaned-out mold for bronze.

8. Melting and pouring: Melted bronze is poured into the heated ceramic mold (still warm from the kiln, or heated so it won't crack when the molten metal is poured into it). It is ZCuSn8Zn4 Tin Bronze Alloys (88% copper, 8% Tin and 4%Zinc, lead free) that is equal to ASTM-C 90300 in USA.

step 9: shell off step 1o: surface treatment and heat treatment

9. Shell off: When the bronze is cool, the ceramic shell (investment) is broken away, revealing the bronze.

10. Surface treatment and heat treatment: The piece is sandblasted to remove every speck of investment. The sprues and pour spout are cut off and the nubs ground down, and any mold marks or other blemishes polished away ("chasing" the bronze). If the sculpture was cut into pieces to be cast, it is welded together and weld marks ground off. The welds create bumps and a dark rainbow hue on the bronze, and these nubs and color are also ground off. At this point, the bronze is a bright brassy color.

step 11: polishing step 12: Patina

11. Polishing: After surface treatment and heat treatment, all bronze sinks will be polished.

12. Patina (acids which color the bronze and help define it) is applied and the high spots of the sculpture often rubbed with steel wool to keep the high spots light. The recesses are left with the majority of the patina and thus help define the shape of the sculpture. Molten clear paste wax is then applied, the piece is mounted on its base, and you have a finished bronze. Another technique we use to make the patina is: to bake the finished bronze items in the kiln with about 500—600 cent degrees, the most beneficial thing is that the patina will last very long and it will hardly

Finishes :
Our bronze sinks have a living finish that evolves over time. Current we can provide 3 colors for you choose: "Aged patina", "Blackened patina" and "Golden Bronse patina". Prior to shipping, each sink receives a coat of paste wax containing carnuba. This gives our sinks a rich, natural luster and slows the natural oxidation process.A maintenance coat of any carnauba-based bees-wax, such as Bees-Wax may be applied periodically to maintain this finish.
Wipe the basin dry with a soft cloth after each use. Clean with a non-bleach mild soap. Do not use abrasive cleaners or harsh detergents, as these will compromise or remove the oxidized surface.
Avoid the use of anti-bacterial soaps. Do not allow toothpaste or any kind of corrosive materials to sit on the surface of the sink. When water no longer forms beads on the surface of the basin, re-apply another coat of bees-wax containing carnauba. Expect the patina to change naturally over time. To get rid of spotting caused by hard water: Dilute white vinegar with an equal amount of water and fill sink or wipe on with a soft cloth.Allow to soak for several minutes and rinse thoroughly.

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